Before You Start (If you're a married man who wants to stay married..!) you MUST:
1) Watch (2) episodes each of Oprah and Dr. Phil on the OWN Network.
2) Read a Romantic Homes or equivalent magazine with your wife and show excited interest in her ideas (even if you want to watch football instead!).
3) Use as many pink feminine tools as possible and be man enough to handle them. ;)
NOTE: This will dramatically increase your estrogen level to a point where you'll be able to maintain interest in the project and actually FINISH IT...It's Amazing.!!!
Tools and Materials You'll Need:
1) Large and Small Fabric Scissors, Small Hammer, Flexible Measuring Tape (all pink), and a 4ft straight edge manly metal ruler or pink yard stick (aka...my mom's behavior management tool...ouch!). :)
2) Heavy Duty Staple Gun w/ 1/4" and 1/2" T-50 Heavy Duty Staples ($6.00), 1 1/2" Wood Screws ($2.00).
3) Circular Saw, Drill w/ 1/2" Drill Bit (for button holes), Jig Saw (for curved pattern)
4) VERY strong thread (female choice $3.00) or 30 lb fishing line (male choice $6.00) for buttons :)
5) (2) very long (12") upholstery Needles ($3.00), Cover (7/8" in this case) Button Kit and Refills (40 Buttons total approx. $30.00)
6) (1) sheet 1/2" plywood ($20.00), (1) 2X4 6ft pine stud. NOTE: Don't use cheaper particle or pressboard because the glued (harder) nature of those plywood types are not staple friendly.
7) 1" Polyester Batting Roll. The sale price at Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Store was 40% off. We purchased a 48" X 18 YRD roll for $4.79/YRD ($86.22). It's enough to make two queen size tufted headboards, so the batting was $43.00 for this project.
8) We used a queen size SSC Duvet that we had as spare fabric ($0.00). Note: Steph bleached the duvet three times to acheive the final shade of color. The duvet is a cotton/linen material and used the thicker top section. The backside was too thin to use.
Final Material Cost = approx. $107.00 (if you use spare fabric)
Do a draft drawing of the project: Always measure twice and cut once.
I always find it best to make a drawing of the project. We're making this headboard for a queen size bed, so the dimensions are: NOTE: I did use pressboard, so that was a good lesson learned on what "not" to use. Many staples didn't sink in all the way.
1) 60" (5ft) Wide X 57" (4' 9") High. TIP: Always measure the total height considering existing mirrors or paintings on the wall so they won't have to be rehung. Also, (see dashed horizontal line) determine the height of the mattress, so you know where to attach the 2X4 stud (for strength and a nailer for the batting) and the starting point for the thickest padded area above the 2X4. Also remember that the leg casters are a part of that measured total height.
2) I used turned legs from an antique dresser that was parted out for these types of projects. They look great and save alot of money. Also (VERY IMPORTANT), they allow you to increase the height to what ever you want, because plywood sheets come in 4X8 ft. The 8ft side is cut for the width (60") and the 4ft side is cut for the height (36"). NOTE: Always cut the width leaving the ends at 4ft to attach the legs to for extra stability. This can't be seen in this graph drawing, but will be seen later.
Make your Buttons:
1) We used 7/8" Cover Button Kits, so cut the fabric in circles and press together as described on the back of the button packages. We made 38 buttons out of the duvet for the diamond shaped pattern we wanted. The drawing made it easy to see the number of buttons we needed. We measured them staggered at 6" apart from each other...very simple while having a glass or two of wine. NOTE: NO BEER, it may decrease your current estrogen levels and cause unacceptable delays sidetracked watching the Military Channel. :)
Making the headboard and attaching the legs and 2X4 stud: (Remember: this plywood is the particle or pressboard that I DON'T recommend.)
1) Cut the plywood with the circular saw as described on the drawing. Remember to leave the bottom ends of the plywood at the 4ft length and a couple inches wide to attach the legs to for added strength. This is also where you've determined the height of the mattress (dotted line on drawing), so keep that in mind for the next step.
3) Attach the legs to the edges using 1 1/2" wood screws from the back of the plywood. Measure the inside distance from each leg and cut the 2X4 stud to that length. Place under the dotted line and attach the stud with screws from the back.
4) Before cutting the curved top, find the exact center of the plywood and mark it.
3) From that center spot, use the straight edge ruler to draw verticle lines 6 inches apart as shown. From the lines it is now easy to measure and mark all of your holes in a diamond shaped pattern. NOTE: Do not make holes to close to the edges of the plywood.
5) Use your drill with a 1/2" drill bit and drill all of your holes.
Attaching the 1" thick Batting:
1) Cut the batting with 4 inches of overlap. On this queen, it was cut to 68" wide.
2) Use the 1/4" staples to attach the batting at stud level as shown. Add three or more layers depending on how thick you want the headboard. The last layer of batting added needs to go over the 2X4 and overlap the bottom of the headboard. Use 1/4" staples to secure batting to the plywood directly under the 2X4, so measure correctly for the overlap. NOTE: We are not using a foam initial layer (saving money), so no glue needed to be used to secure it to the plywood. Plywood, by nature, snags itself perfectly to the batting, so the staples and eventual buttons are enough to make sure it doesn't slip out of place.
3) Wrap the legs a couple inches to the edge of the first turned area and staple.
4) Now flip the headboard over to the back side. Using the 1/2" staples, secure the overlapped batting of the top and sides to the plywood. Use the pink hammer as needed to pound in the staples that stick out a little. Cut the remaining edges of the batting to a nice shape resembling the top, sides and bottom. Use the 1/4" staples to secure the bottom overlap to the plywood. Try not to cover up the holes at this point.
Attaching the Fabric to Front and Back:
1) The first step is to measure the correct size of the fabric (if you are limited) that you need. First of all count the number of buttons going across the fabric. As you can see there are nine rows. NOTE: The zig-zag pattern across two rows must all be counted in your measurment as one complete row of buttons.
2) Determine how deep you want each tuft to be and multiply times nine buttons (in this case it's 9 buttons times 2 inches deep equals 18 inches).
a) Now add the width of the plywood (60 inches), plus 18 inches of tufting (9 buttons, 6 inches apart), plus 12 inches (6"+6" each side) or more overlap and that equals 90 inches of material width.
b) Now add the height of the plywood (36 inches), plus 18 inches of tufting (9 buttons, three inches apart), plus 12 inches (6"+6" each side) or more overlap and that equals 66 inches of material width.
3) The best way to attach the fabric is to first find the center of the fabric. The fastest way is to fold the fabric (upside down) from top to bottom and then left to right. The top left corner is the center. Just mark it with a pencil.
4) Place the headboard upright and secure it firmly standing up (We used a couch and coffee table :)). Take one of the long upholstery needles and guide it from the center hole on the back of the headboard through the front. Another way, if you can, is to use your fingers to feel both sides of the hole (on a smaller headboard) to determine where the button should go through.
5) Place the fabric over the top and front of the headboard and poke the needle throught the penciled hole in the fabric. Now get the fabric relatively in place on the top and sides. Use pins if necessary.
6) Use approx. 2 ft of string or fish line to thread through a 12 inch needle and a button. Bring the line ends together and triple tie a knotted end. Trim the excess line ends and keep the knot on the button side to make it easier to slide through the fabric. Use the needle already inserted as a guide to push your buttoned needle through the same hole and remove the guide needle. Use your staple gun with 1/4" staples to stretch the line through the hole in the back and while pulling tightly, place the line to one side of the hole and staple it, bring the line over the hole and staple again, then bring it back over the hole and staple one last time. Loop it through a line and tie it good.
MAJOR NOTE: I'm 6' 4" tall and 240 lbs. I found this part somewhat difficult to do by myself with a manual stapler. I found it easier to go over the headboard with my long arms and push the headboard against my body while pulling the string and stapling it...in other words, get an electric stapler and some help. Walking back and forth 38 times or more would also be a good suggestion, but my support system of a couch and coffee table made it difficult. I'm sure you can think of a better way...maybe saw horses or a wide inside doorway to push against? Hey, that's a good idea..?!?
7) Now, working in a circle around the center, stretch the fabric evenly out in all directions. Place the needle in the next hole from the back to front to find the next button spot. Remove the needle and push your finger in the needle hole as far as you can. Set up another button on your needle and guide it through the front and secure it in the same manner as before. Make sure the pleating that occurs looks good and the seems or fabric pattern is straight. Keep going in a circular pattern as best as possible 36 more times until you're done (or in the hospital). :)
8) After the buttons were done and the pleats looked good, I tucked the fabric under the 2X4 (as shown) and created a scalloped effect by stapling to the bottom of the 2X4, so the staples couldn't be seen.
9) Flip the headboard over to expose the back. We added one layer of batting to the back to cover the exposed plywood, staples and string(cut to shape). We had enough material to make it look better. Normally, the back is against a wall and will never be seen. We think leaving this unfinished looks terrible. I pleated the overlapping material on the back and used 1/2" staples to secure.
10) The rest is all common sense. Mainly, get the piece to look very nice by smoothing the fabric and making sure the pleats are straight.
Stephanie's husband Jim